Monday

Monday

We meant to spend the day in the Louver; unfortunately the wing with the Vermeer was closed for the day so we decided against it. We have a shared goal of seeing all the Vermeer’s in public collections and if the Vermeer wing is closed then it isn’t worth going into the Louver. We will go back Wednesday when it is open.

Whilst on our aborted mission to the Louvre, we did go to the bookstore and found some gems. One is the book about Paris Paris views 100 Years ago and again today. Sort of a “third view” of Paris. There seems to be enough for both of us to spend our entire research grants there. Another was a charming book about Gustave Le gray that folded out. There is also a Complete works of LeGray I must pick up whilst here.

Of course, as in any fine museum, there is the tacky gift emporium upstairs. I have been looking to expand the Kodacultturalism project somewhat and think that tacky tourist Art STUFF MIGHT BE THE DIRECTION TO GO with the project. Tourist space is no place. How can you be everywhere and feel at home at the same time. Tourist space is international space. I am interested in this nowhere space in particular. I shot uber close-ups of the tacky tourist crap hoping it may be a new direction for the project.

Instead of the Louvre, we happened upon/found the square of Cardinal Richilieu. There is that great scene in the 70s version of the three musketeers set there where D’Artagnon is supposed to fight all three of the Musketeers there but gets interrupted by Richilieu’s guard and the four of them best Richilieu’s guards then there and end up in the maids quarters getting wet with the maids.

It is known as the Palais Royal and the Jardin du Palais Royal. The palace was originally built for Cardinal Richilieu, but upon his death it was left to Louis XIII. His widow, Anne of Austria preferred it to the Louvre, which she considered cold, so she moved in, raising Louis XIV there. It became the palace of the Duc d’Orleans in the 1780’s, he was Louis XVI’s younger brother, and it was he who had the gardens enclosed. It became the scene of brilliant gatherings, Moliere performed there, café’s and theatre’s filled the square. In contrast to Versailles, it was open to all social classes, and became well known as a spot of trysts among all classes. Just after the Revolution it became a gambling house, but was quickly reclaimed in 1815 by the future King Louis-Phillippe, one of his librarians was Alexandre Dumas. The palace is now owned by the state, and it houses the Council of State, the Constitutional Council, and the Ministry of Council.

Walking quickly through the palace, we came upon the courtyard, and the gardens. The entire area is lined with small interesting shops and cafes. The courtyard is home Daniel Buren’s stone columns (1980) that are striped black and white, and vary in height. While at first they seem jarring, as you spend time in the courtyard you realized they are now part of the action of the courtyard. People sit on some, children and dogs run circles around others, while the whole piece illustrates the idea of perspective – I think. The square was lined with art students, making use of their skills in drawing with perfect perspective. It’s funny, but art students look the same everywhere.

One store in particular held my attention; it was filled to the rafters – literally with vintage designer items, suits, handbags, and dresses. Literally all the French designers, Channel, Dior, Hermes, Pucci. The French call window-shopping, window licking, and this is one window I cleaned every inch of. It is all in perfect condition, and obviously the buyer knows their couture. Other shops sold antiques, jewelry, old war metals, stamps, and tobacco products. It is a curious place. The gardens are full of roses and a fountain in the center to lounge around. We returned there later for coffee, it seems with the rest of Paris. Our waitress was quite harried, but we sat next to an extremely upper class, chic, British woman and her granddaughter of about 13, who seemed very pleased to be touring Paris together. It was fun to listen to them talk, and the Grandmother would reminiscences about when she was first in Paris, or there last.

We did fulfill one of the goals we set for our trip, we went to visit the Collette store. As it has show up in everything we’ve read, we thought it would be a good stop. It was pretty cool and I did learn something about the NYC art scene I didn’t know. Apparently through the early oughts there was a gallery in NYC we weren’t aware of. It showed work from the kids from the city and the older folk as well. It ended in 01 and seems tres cool to the Parisian’s. Perhaps we will get the book, it does rather look old hat to us.

We both photographed throughout the day, enjoying our visits around the city, a day of chance. In many ways more fun than being too planned out in Paris.

Tonight we returned home before dinner and stopped at both the Fauchon (think Dean and Deluca, with Black and Pink details) and the monoprix gourmet (think good grocery store and K mart combined) on the way. We supplied ourselves and showered before dinner helping get the dust of the city and the fatigue out of our bodies. We had a glass of rose, purchased at Fauchon, before returning to the streets and eating another amazing dinner at Savy. A charmingly untouched bistro south of the Champs-Elyesse. We sat outside as it was not air conditioned, and noticed across the street a group of paparazzi waiting. Whilst we sat contemplating the menu, Coolio, yes the NYC rapper, emerged from the back of the radio station. It seem the paparazzi were there waiting for him, unfortunately, FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE WE ARRIVED in Paris, I didn’t have my Leica. I guess I’m not Paparazzi… C’est La Vie!

We ordered a Kir, and our charmingly awkward waiter helped us with the menu. We ordered Lamb for 2. It was a lamb shoulder cooked for hours with tomatoes and herbs until it truly was falling off the done, served with frites and to drink a great Haute Medoc. Sure it is the middle of summer and lamb and deep rich red wine don’t make sense but it was amazing. While it is not exactly your best cut if lamb, it was but cooked perfectly. They brought out a tray of condiments for the meat that included salt of the sea and three kinds of mustard. There was a dark reddish mustard I had never seen before, it looked like a Tapaenade but was actually a sweet mustard with red wine. Fabulous with the lamb!

We have a 2000 version of the DK eyewitness guide from our first visit. Even though it is 5 years old it has been our best reference for restaurants. Each of the restaurants we have eaten at from their suggestions has been great. Since it is 5 years old they have not been mobbed by tourists. We used the Rick Steves guide in Italy. It is a great book but everywhere we went, we ran into “Rick–nicks” clutching their own copy of the book. Those rude Americans spoke too loudly in the restaurants, made no attempts to speak the language, and thought we had something in common besides the book. Quelles Horres!

Even though dinner was more than 100 euro it was well worth it. We walked home sated and feeling like nothing bad could ever happen in Paris.

After dinner Terry had a beer…..